Skopje on Foot
Exploring the Macedonia Capital
Skopje is an interesting city with many hidden treasures and hidden secrets that provide shelter for secrets of the past, present and even the future.
Much like Albania’s capital, Tiranë, Skopje appears to be experiencing a bit of an identity crisis as well. Much of the historical landmarks were destroyed during the many many many occupations and with each new occupation and natural disaster came a facelift of the city…leading us to the Skopje 2014 Project.
Before I dig into that, I want to be very clear that Skopje is indeed a beautiful city with artful installations, monuments, landmarks (regardless of their age), classical building facades and of course my most important thing…it’s very safe here as well…just like all the other Balkan neighbours. I have no issues walking around here even at night.
Exploration underway
Free Walking Tour
As I approached the main square for the first time, making my way to the Free Walking Tour meeting place, I rounded a corner from a main traffic road and strolled down this quaint street lined with cafes and boutiques and as I neared the end of the street it opened to the main square. MY JAW DROPS. First impressions were holy crap bag. I am not joking, I called my daughter to facetime her to show her just how magisterial and intense this main square is.
Its central focal point is this massive statue with a fountain surrounded by lions and the square is surrounded by equally impactful statues, bridges and buildings that are literally something out of the movies. I was in shock, I had no idea at all.
That’s my summary of my first impression.
Here is the catch
Kitschy or Gluttony
As I explored the city with a local guide it was revealed piece by piece that its all a façade. I was so confused, ‘what do you mean it’s not real…I am looking at it plain as day, boldly standing in front of me.’ Sadly, reporters around the world have labelled this city as ‘kitschy’ which the locals obviously find offensive. It has been compared to as the Las Vegas of the Balkans. I have been to Las Vegas and while it is comparable in sheer massiveness of the monuments it doesn’t compare. Las Vegas is large scale gluttony and showy. Skopje, in my opinion is not kitschy, maybe a little, but I like it. I like this identity they have made for themselves…like Madonna…there is nothing wrong with reinventing yourself.
The recent history
The Earthquake of 1963
The history is that Skopje endured a devastating earthquake in 1963 that destroyed 80% of the city…which was primarily in a neoclassical architectural style. With the rebuilding after the earthquake it was mostly modernist architecture which is what prompted the Skopje 2014 project to give the capital a more visually pleasing complexion.
While the intention of the Government was to help restore some national pride (at least that was the intention on paper), the people see it as a waste of resources in a country with high unemployment and poverty. Critics suggest that it is a distraction from these problems and a coverup for corruption.
Here is the thing, all of it, the statues, the buildings, the facades are all part of a reconstruction project labeled ‘Skopje 2014’. Let me tell you there is some serious controversy about this $700 million USD project funded by the government. The purpose of the project was to give the city a more classical appeal and consisted of building colleges, museums, government buildings and of course all the mammoth monuments depicting national historical figures. 20 buildings and 40+ monuments later…a project that was supposed to be completed in 2014 is still incomplete…7 years past the completion date.
Recent Direction of Skopje 2014
In early 2018, it was announced that the Skopje 2014 project would be halted and they began removing its controversial monuments and statues. There is also still the possibility of removing the rest of them, such as the monuments of Alexander the Great and Philip II of Macedon, both of which are massive focal points in the city center.
In June 2018, the government also announced that the monuments would be renamed and marked with inscriptions honouring Greek-Macedonian friendship. But unfortunately due to the history of the relationship most of the inscriptions have been defaced. I won’t get into the history of the relationship, you should google it, but basically Macedonia, the country was forced to legally be renamed to North Macedonia because Greece claims the name as one of the regions, the flag was also changed by force and the claim over Alexander the Great, among many many other things…needless to say, the relationship is between the neighbours has a long rocky history.
My final thoughts on the ‘façade’
I don’t live here, so I can’t comment on the personal impact for those that do. I don’t have any ‘skin in the game’ so to speak, so I can only speak to my personal impression as a tourist to this central Balkan capital…and I keep coming back to my first approach on the city center, it was majestic and impactful and jaw dropping with its sheer size of the square and its monuments, intricately decorated bridges…so while it may all be ‘fake’. It’s not. It’s not fake, it exists…but what it is…is that it is all new…
Please note that I have not received these products for free or at a discounted price in exchange for my opinion. There may be links that are affiliate links but at the time of posting this review, I have not received any monetary kickbacks.