Ethno Tour of the East
A Megalithic Observatory awaits
Departing from Skopje in the early morning, we drove North East to make our first stop of the day. Near a village called Kokino is a megalithic observatory, located at an altitude of 1.030 m and was named after the nearest village Kokino. The observatory was accidentally discovered in 2001 by Bulgarian and Macedonian archeologists and in 2002 they started researching the observatory and it’s significance. It has been dated to 1.800 years B.C., from the early Bronze Age.
The megalithic observatory is located on a volcanic hill and the rocks were created by the hardening of lava that leaked from a volcanic crater. Time and erosion made fissures on the rocks and part of these fissures represented markers through which the Sun and Moon cycles were observed and time was measured. The megalithic observatory in Kokino is one of the most important old observatories in the world. In 2005, the American Space Agency NASA ranked Kokino as 4th on the list of 15 natural observatories in the world.
Macedonia Cappadocia
Valley of Stone Dolls
After hiking to the top of the mountain at the observatory, we continued to drive to Kulkica, also know as the Valley of Stone Dolls and the Macedonian Cappadocia. According to local folklore, a man was struggling to choose between two women to marry. Not able to make up his mind, he figured he would marry both on the same day and not tell the other. Unluckily for him, during his morning wedding the second wife came to check out the scene and was horrified watching her husband’s double-crossing nuptials. In a rage, she cursed the whole wedding party and they turned to stone where they stood and created Kuklica.
THe cutest town there ever was
Kratovo, a city of medieval towers and bridges
Kratovo is a small town in Macedonia and it lies on the western slopes of Mount Osogovo at an altitude of 600 metres above sea level. It is located in the crater of an extinct volcano and is known for its well preserved bridges and towers.
In the Roman period, Kratovo was an important mining center and during the Byzantine period, Kratovo was a significant trade center for gold, silver, and copper. The importance of this small town was also acknowledged by the Turkish Sultan, who while passing with his army through Macedonia, stopped in Kratovo to see the city of gold and silver. However, in 1689 the city was heavily abandoned because of the Ottomans, with the last mining fields closing by 1805.
Some interesting preserved historical sites in Kratovo are the six towers (guard-towers for the mines) and the Kratovo bridges.
Luckily for me, my tour guide’s father had access to the keys for the towers so we were able to go in the towers to explore…otherwise they would have been closed on a Sunday. What a major bonus!
Before we continued to the last stop of the day, we had lunch at a traditional restaurant where they make a type of pizza with home made smoked pork and it was delicious. A secret to the restaurant is they have access to the under ground passage ways that were once open below the city and were used as an escape from invasion. Unfortunately today, most of the passages are closed in, but I was able to go below the restaurant to explore their mini ancient escape passage way.
Frescoes in the mountains
Lesnovo Monastery
Lesnovo monastery, officially called Monastery of St Archangel Michael and St Hermit Gabriel of Lesnovo, is a medieval monument in North Macedonia. It is perhaps the best preserved endowment of a Serbian noble of the 14th century, with well-preserved frescoes.
By the time we arrived at the Monastery is was after 5pm and pitch black outside. Even though I couldn’t really get to see the monastery, we really lucked out because a service had just begun as we arrived so I was able to go inside and witness a service in the monastery. It was really something else because the only light inside was by candles so I imagine this would have been exactly what it would have been like in the 14th century without power or heat. So lucky!
As the day ends
Back to the city
Now that my epic adventure is ending we started the drive back to the city, about 1.5 hour drive. I am so thankful for the tour guide, Lidija, and the driver, Miki. My day was spent in great company with the friendliest of the friendliest Macedonians.
We had such a great time that Lidija will be joining me for fun on Saturday for my tour to Kosovo. How great is it when you really connect with people that cross your path.
We dropped Lidija off first and Miki continued to drive me to my apartment. He was the kindest gentleman in all the land and insisted on constantly opening our doors for us. As he pulled in front of my apartment he jumps out of the car and runs to my side of the car to open my door for me. Then he hugs me good bye with the biggest of bear hugs rocking me back and forth like a parent does to their toddler…then he embraces my cheeks with his hands, looks me in the eye and gives me a deepest of thank yous from the bottom of his heart…and kisses my forehead. It was a monumental good-bye from a legend of a guy.
What a hell of a day that was. Macedonian people are epic! Epic with expression, epic with kindness, epic with generosity.
Tour Company: Plus Travel Skopje for the win!
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